The fight with the carp

Contact and fighting with the carp should start as soon as possible after the hit.
Here we are in the case of a start in open water (lake or pond) and without too many visible obstacles.
In the first minutes, it is not necessary to try to stop the carp which will deploy all its force to reach a sufficient speed and to drive the line towards probable obstacles.
It is advisable to slow it down progressively by always trying to control it.
The manoeuvre consists in tiring it at a good distance from the edge because the greater the distance between the angler and the carp is, the more the elasticity of the nylon allows to reduce the rushes caused by the carp.
The most important is to keep the permanent contact with the fish.
The rod must form an angle of approximately 70° compared to the ground to absorb as well as possible the rushs caused by the carp.
The action of a semi-parrabolic rod and the deployed line body is very reassuring to avoid a breakage.
At the first signs of tiredness, one can start the pumping phase which consists in bringing back the carp towards the bank:
- Raise the rod to the vertical without turning the crank to pull the fish towards you.
- Then lower the rod horizontally while quickly recovering line with your reel.
- We repeat the operation by keeping in mind that the carp will certainly not let do what you want to do!
The purpose of this action is to force the carp to go up towards the surface by taking it off the bottom.
The reel brake must be set hard enough to be able to pump, but must still be able to release line in case of a sudden rush.

It is imperative to be familiar with the capabilities of your equipment in order to be able to put all the chances of success on your side.
The slightest error of appreciation can lead to the breakage or to the stall of the fish and it would be a pity to see disappearing what would have been maybe the carp of your dreams !

The fights with the carps could be different according to the types of water bodies and the obstacles encountered:
- In lakes: old stumps, stones and rocks, mussels, remains of dwellings...
- In rivers: submerged trees, mussels, rocks...
- In ponds: reeds, water lilies, herbariums...
- In canals: vehicle carcasses, household appliances, damaged dyke stakes...
Gravel pits do not really present dangerous obstacles to my knowledge.

The most perilous fishing for me is the one practised near the immersed trees because we don't know what is underneath but we know what to expect if the carp sneak in!
In this case, no question of going to walk here or there because your presence near your battery is essential.
You fish the lair of these carp ladies and I would say their favorite bunker so stay on guard!

Throw your lines with precision at the right places is de rigueur if you do not want to leave too much bottom of lines (it will not be because of the carps there).
The fishing technique is different from the normal one because here, you will apply your brakes harder while leaving a margin in case a torpedo would come to tear off your mount.
Your rod-pod as well as your rods will have to be well anchored (even attached to spikes on the ground) with a position at 45° to 70° for the rods.
Because it is out of question to let do what the carp has planned and as you have a solid material with a resistant bottom line and that you are close to the rods at the time of the departure, there should not be problems normally, isn't it!

Alas, be mistaken because the troubles are only going to begin and the carp will make you see all the colors.

Attention departure..beep..beep and the rod bends, you grab it in a flash because your brakes are well applied.
Here no reels which empty, just a few beeps and hop! the carp is already safe in the branches.
You bridle it to avoid that it doesn't take your line in its labyrinth of branches.
Double or quits? either the carp immediately gets out of this trap thanks to your quick shoeing or you are blocked and the line is tight, nothing happens and nothing moves, not even a vibration of the line.
Then wait a little while while slightly slackening the line and with the least movement, take again the contact without pulling too much on the line, because it is possible that the carp changes direction, but it is not so sure! In this situation, it is not by pulling towards you that the carp will get free, it is up to it to free itself and to you to take advantage of this moment to extract it from this trap to finally work it out of this zone. Do not forget that it is essential that your assembly can release alone the lead in the event of blockage in the obstacles.
The plastic lead clip allows the lead to be released in the event of a snag.
If you have the possibility to drop your lines with a bait boat, replace your sinkers with a stone attached with a rubber band that will be released more easily in case of a blockage in the submerged branches.

Pebbles can be used instead of sinkers for carp mounts

Rollers can be used instead of lead weights for carp mounts


After such a fight, I advise you to check your knots and especially your line body on about 10 meters because it has been put to the test after its passage in the branches and it may have become weakened (crushed, scratched, contorted), then you will understand why it sometimes happens to you unexplained breakages if you do not control your lines!
Come on, don't be afraid because every good carpenter must have experienced these extremely dangerous fishing situations where your tension and adrenaline are put to the test.


Articles updated on: 12/09/2021


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