The different mounts for fishing Carp
Basic material necessary to carry out your assemblies
This brief presentation of the basic material is of course far from exhaustive. It is necessary to add to it a whole heap of small material which always has its place at the bottom of the fishing box.A pair of scissors-pliers, strong glue, plastic sheath of different diameters, rubber beads to protect the knots from lead, pieces of foam for floating assemblies, a box of small split leads, soluble thread, small stainless steel rings, hair elastics, boilers, dental floss etc...
* Line Corps
The nylons used in the carp fishery generally have a diameter between 28 and 35 hundredths of a mm. The 28 hundredth is to be reserved for fishing in ponds, in waters free of obstacles. For fishing in rivers or congested waters it is preferable to opt for a good 35 hundredth. Since several years I use fluorescent nylons, which does not seem to bother the carps. They are very practical, in particular to follow the movements of the fish during the fight or to ensure the correct placement of the lines at night.
* The various fishing sinkers
They are used to propel the line to the desired distance, to hold it in place on the bottom and eventually to ensure the fish self-flagging. Leads used for carp fishing have a mass generally between 40 and 120 g. There are many forms of lead weights (Arlesey, trilobe, missile, river, ball, watch, inline...).
The choice of the weight and shape of the lead depends on the type of mounting used, the conditions encountered (fishing distance, current, mud...) and the power of the rods. For self-locking mounts (fixed mount and escape mount) the weight should not be lower than 60g as the inertia of the lead must be sufficient to sting the fish.
* Carp footlights
Most carpanglers use braided socks. Because of its flexibility the braid allows a discreet and natural presentation of the esche. The braid also offers the advantage of being very resistant, which is not negligible since the leader is subjected to severe tests during the fight.
Personally, I prefer to use nylon, fluorocarbon or amnesia socks.
Indeed, their rigidity makes it possible to reduce entanglement and ensure better self-ironing.
* Carp hooks
Hooks for carp fishing must be strong and sharp. They are essentially eyelet models made of carbon. The pricking of a hook can be assessed on the top of the nail and its sturdiness with pliers. It is necessary to check the condition of the hook after each capture or hookage and do not hesitate to change it if necessary. There are various shapes of Carp hooks. The hooks with short or medium shank and retractable point are rather intended for fishing on the bottom while the models with long shank and straight point are more adapted to floating rigs.
The size of the hook must be in proportion to the size of the bait. It is generally between n°1 and n°6. It is better to refer to the actual size of the hook rather than to the number indicated on the cover because there are big differences between the marks.
My advice to you:
- check your hooks often, the pricking has to be perfect and you will see the number of catches increase!
- Prefer barbless hooks which reduce injuries in the carp's mouth.
* Carp swivels
They allow the connection of the trace to the main body and limit the twisting of the wire. Barrel swivels are used which are more discreet and more robust than staple swivels. To connect the leader or the body of the line to the swivel you can make a "Spoon" knot or a "Palomar" knot.
* The essentials articles
The bait needle and bait stops: the needle is used to thread bait (boilies, seeds or other) on the hair and know that, the bait needle is probably the accessory that is most frequently lost, it is therefore preferable to have several spares at the bottom of its box.
The bait-stops that are placed in the curl of hair to block the bait. They exist in the form of "V" or "dumbbells" and are presented in plates of about 50 or 60 pieces.
Plastic lead clips: these are increasingly used because they further reduce the risk of entanglement and make it easier for the fish to get rid of the lead in case of breakage.
Mounting at hair
Certainly the most widely used mount nowadays and the most "fisher"!I am proud to be one of the "pioneers of mounting at hair" discovered in 1985 in the media, but which I was already using in 1981.
At that time, a friend made me discover a montage found in an English fishing magazine which left me perplexed on all points and which had the peculiarity of fishing with a bare hook and without bait on it!
Impossible to believe the unimaginable, we who did everything on the contrary to hide our hooks at the sight of the carps !
This assembly consisted of a 40 cm baseline to which was fixed a single eye hook n°8, nothing magic at this stage but the trick is that we hung at the bend of the hook n°8 a second mounted hook n° 18 of a length of 2 cm which was eschéché of a grain of sweet corn.
The results were not made wait and with the first shot of the evening, we followed departures on departures! never seen in the carp fishing at that time.
Everything has evolved today and, above all, everything has become complicated, so if like me you think it should stay simple, go back in time.
The hook is free, it bites more easily and considerably reduces the dropout rate.
Shifting, the bait of the hook makes it possible to mislead the most distrustful fish.
With the hair mounting, the size and nature of the esche can be adapted to the size and nature of the esche.
We can vary the material of the hair in order to adapt it to all fishing situations (nylon, fluoro, braid and even amnesia).
Finally, the hair mounting avoids deep entanglements and almost all your carp will be bitten at the edge of the lips, ideal for stalling and returning the fish to the water in good conditions.
1)- The hooks: choose the sturdy and spicy ones, for the shape, it's a matter of taste, once it stings!
2)- The leaders: prefer nylon, fluorocarbon or amnesia to the braid which I consider too dangerous for the carp.
3)- Swivels: prefer barrel swivels which are more discreet, stronger and less annoying than stamps.
4)- Leads: At least 80 grams of missile lead or in-line lead is a good choice and adapts to all conditions.
4)- Rigid and thin anti-tangles: mainly used for long distance throws, they prevent the bottom of the lines from getting tangled with the body of the line.
Prefer rigid leaders
The Amnesia, which stands out mainly because it has no memory and the hook does not tip over when the carp pushes the mount back.The line twist is minimal and the hook/bait presentation is optimal. This nylon is ideal for making leaders for sport fishing.
It is available in three colours: transparent, red and black and in various diameters.
the "knotless knot" and assembly
Probably one of the easiest fishing knots to make because it allows you to make the hair at the same time at the desired length. and the bottom of the line which will also be cut to the desired size (between 10 and 25 cm).
The carp will come to suck the bait thus carrying the hook in its mouth and it is either by pushing back the assembly or by moving that the hook will come to be lodged in its lips.
It is very important and primordial to regularly check the sharpness of the tips of your hooks and sharpen them if necessary.
This operation will facilitate the penetration of the hook and the success to catch and not to lose by stalling your carps.
The floating carp assembly:
There are several ways to make your boilies float:
* or by putting your raw boilies in the microwave for about a minute.
* or by using a piece of cork or foam that will be placed inside or under the bait on the hair.
Boilies and floating bait in general can be used all year round and often give good results.
A floating bait allows:
* to be better seen by the carp and not get lost in the debris.
* to be very light in the water (at the slightest aspiration, the boilie will enter more easily in the mouth of the carp than a heavier classic) which I think plays on the catches of more distrustful fishes.
* to have a very good presentation of the hook
There are several ways to adjust the height at which the floating boilie will stand:
* the size of the trace can measure from 10 cm to 60 cm and it's up to you to choose the place to put the leaded paste.
It is not only boilies that can be used in Pop up so it is possible to take off. corn, peanuts, chickpeas, lupins, etc...
The lighter or unstuck boilie:
A lighter boilie is called a bouillette that comes off just from the bottom of the length of the hair being made, the semi-floating boilie is positioned just above the hook thanks to the weight of the hook.
So when you have thrown your line and when the lead hits the bottom, your leader will go down gently and will settle gently, leaving the boilie retained by the hook to float.
This is effective in areas where the bottom is cluttered or muddy.
Escape carp mounting
My favourite carp mounting
It is made entirely of amnesia, which gives the assembly a certain stiffness, even for the hair that remains aligned with the hook and the leader.The anti-tangle and lead are force-fastened in the top of the swivel which makes the assembly non-sliding.
Don't worry, the lead can always be released in case of breakage thanks to the plastic lead fastener.
This assembly makes it difficult to prevent the hook from turning over during ejection of the assembly and contributes to the hook biting more often.
Helicopter assembly:
The peculiarity of this assembly is that once launched, the bottom of the line starts to swirl around the lead, thus preventing any wrapping.
It does not, however, allow long distances to be reached, being slowed down by the role of the lower line, which turns like helicopter blades.
There are nowadays many sets for carp fishing and each set has a specific and different use.
There is no such thing as a miracle assembly, but only the precise and timely use of each of them will make the difference.
The principal hair assemblies
Le montage In-Line
Le montage 360° Ronny Ring
The main connection nodes to know:
Duncan's Knot
This knot called "Duncan's knot" is extremely sturdy to connect your leader or line body (nylon or braid) to a swivel.
It is advisable to always take care when making your knots to moisten them before tightening them.
The Barrel Knot
This knot is called the "Barrel Knot" and is used to connect two nylon strands together in the same way as for line heads.
The big advantage is that the two ends of the lines come out in the middle and, by cutting them very short, you get a knot that doesn't catch on the rod's rings or on the reel.
The Palomar Knot
This knot called "Palomar's knot" makes it possible to firmly connect a nylon line to the hook or a swivel in a very simple way.
My advice to you:
- Always take care when making your knots and moisten them before tightening them.
- Never burn the ends with a lighter (600° at 2mm from your knot would weaken it), just cut
- don't hesitate to retie your knots after several casts or several fishing trips.
- And finally, it is essential to make them again after an intensive fight with a powerful carp, believe me!
Articles updated on: 28/04/2022
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